HERMAN
Herman, a local Nias fisherman, was either looking for a fishing buddy or 100,000 Rupiah, whose to say? Regardless, we set out in the Teluk Fohili waters with yellowfin in sight.
Those dreams were soon crushed with one spurt of the four-stroke and one muffled "anjing". "Panas, panas", Herman proclaims while fanning himself, letting me know that the engine's overheated.
Herman checking the boat's fuel tank valve
Herman covers the engine from the sun with an umbrella canopy as the swell is building, gently rocking the lifeless boat towards the reef. Herman shoots me a look and tosses me an oar. A cry for help that transcends all linguistic barriers.
After 10 minutes of fighting a winless battle, Herman dips his hand in the water, lifts the canopy and flicks it at the sizzling engine. He wipes a withered, oily paintbrush on the engine, rips the pull cord and prays it catches.
Herman fishing the water out of the boat, the only fishing done that day
It caught.
ANDI
Andi lives next door to his brother, Arif, who has been our host these few weeks spent on Nias.
Andi's and my worries lay within the clouds this time, not the sun. As we embarked on our yellowfin voyage, torrential downpour put me in a frenzy state scrambling to protect my camera. What feels like 30km later, Andi kicks the boat into idle. With the haze surrounding us, the only sense of life around seems to be below.
Here in Nias, they still use the oldest fishing technique in the world; handline fishing.
With the spool of the reel in his left hand, he lets out a three-hook flapper rig, each hook baited with fresh octopus guts. The hooks are spaced about a meter apart, and he finishes it off with a heavy sinker. He will jig it until he feels a bite.
Andi uses rubber to protect his finger from the line.
Andi poses as he waits patiently for a bite
Thumbs up from Andi
Back to civilization
The hunt continues.